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John Madden, America’s Broadcasting Gourmand, Ate Football Up

On his bus headed to Canton, Ohio, for the Hall of Fame game in 2005, John Madden was talking about his favorite season — not spring or summer — but football season.

Sitting sideways in a diner-style booth, Madden told me how he awakens, almost like a bear from hibernation, as the N.F.L. season nears. He had recently been to a Chicago Bears practice at Soldier Field, his appetizer to a season’s meal.

“I know this comes off sounding phony,” he said as we rode on Interstate 80, “but there’s no better smell than that grass — and the smell of a baby’s head.