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Football in the Land of Bridges and Walls

MATAMOROS, Mexico—The morning after the final Presidential debate, Juan first stirs at 5:05 a.m., reaching and shutting off his blaring alarm clock. He lies there resting his eyes until his cellphone alarm begins vibrating at the other edge of the bed at 5:25. Then he pops up, because if he stays there any longer he’ll probably be late. He has to cross the border to get to school.

Juan gets dressed and wakes his father. Normally, Juan would drive his small Chevy, but it’s in the shop and he needs a ride. They leave their home with the sky still dark, and his father drops him off around 6:30 a.