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Counter: Beer, BierBeisl and bone marrow

Hello again:

In honor of our nation’s birthday, this week’s food section is dedicated to beer, which is perhaps what you want to be drinking while you watch Uncle Stu work his way through the fountains, sparklers, snakes, strobes and ground spinners that are the alpha and omega of a safe 'n' sane Fourth of July. Our ace suds correspondent John Verive tells you everything you need to know, except possibly how you might get his job.

I stop by Kinjiro, a newish izakaya in Little Tokyo, which serves at least 10 different bottles from Japanese cult brewer Hitachino Nest and where the drink that may go best with its meaty small-plates cuisine is Cowboy, a traditional yamahai sake known for its affinity with beef.