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How a Global Reputation Is Changing an Amateur Derby

Jasper Juinen for The New York Times

BUNSCHOTEN-SPAKENBURG, the Netherlands — Every seat, every perch, every conceivable inch of space is occupied. The two grandstands that run alongside the field at the Sportpark de Westmaat are full. The extra bleachers that have been put up for the occasion, no more than scaffold and gangplanks, are full.

Fans hang over railings and cram into corners, standing four or five deep, straining on their toes to get a decent view. Once all the feasible vantage points are gone, one or two decide that there is no other option than to head for the roof.